Khilanmarg
All through the summer and well into the autumn,
Gulmarg is a enticing attraction for golfers from all over the world. The
world's highest, 18-hole green golf course is at Gulmarg. A highland
meadow, just 4 km from Gulmarg, Khilanmarg is accessible by foot, by pony
or in a dandi. From here, the view of the snow peaks and the limpid waters
of the Wular Lake is a breathtaking one, unfolding view upon view of
Himalayan splendour.
Khilanmarg offers an unparalleled view of the great Himalayan range. The
Apharwat peak leads to the Alpather Lake, a picturesque alpine lake that
remains frozen until late June. For horse riding freaks, Alpather Lake
makes an exciting day's excursion. Slightly lower than Gulmarg is the
shrine of Baba Reshi (a Muslim mystic saint) visited by people of all
faiths.
This smaller valley is about a 6-km walk from the
Gulmarg bus stop and car park. The meadow, carpeted with flowers in the
spring, is the site for Gulmarg's winter ski runs and offers a fine view
of the surrounding peaks and over the Kashmir Valley. It's a 600-metre
ascent from Gulmarg to Khilanmarg and during the early spring, as the snow
melts, it can be a very muddy hour's climb up the hill. The effort is
rewarded, if it's clear, with a sweeping view of the great Himalayas from
Nanga Parbat to the twin 7,100-metre peaks of Nun and Kun to the
southeast.
Alpather Lake:
Beyond Khilanmarg, 13-km from Gulmarg at the foot of the twin 4, 511 metre
Apharwat peaks, this lake is frozen until mid-June and even later in the
year one can see lumps of ice floating in its cold waters. The walk from
Gulmarg follows a well-graded Pony track over the 3, 810 metre Apharwat
ridge, separating it from Khilanmarg, and then up the valley to the lake
at 3,843 metres. The more adventurous trekkers can climb straight up the
boulder-strewn slope of the ridge and descend the other side to the path.
For horse riding aficionados, Alpather Lake makes an exciting day's
excursion, starting early morning and returning late evening.
The Ningli Nallah:
Flowing from the melting snow and ice on Apharwat and the Alpather Lake,
this pretty mountain stream is 8-km from Gulmarg. The stream continues
down into the valley below and joins the Jhelum River near Sopur. This
long, grassy valley is a popular picnic spot and the walking path carries
on, crossing the Ningli (also spelt as Ningle) Nallah by a bridge and
continues on to the Khilenmarg, another grassy meadow and a good spot for
camping. In early summer one will probably share the campsites with Gujars
moving their herds up to the high meadows.
Ferozpore Nallah
Reached from the Tangmarg road, or from the Outer Circular Walk, this
mountain stream meets the Bahan River at a popular picnic spot known as
'waters meet'. The stream is reputed to be particularly good for trout
fishing; it's about five km down the valley from Gulmarg but quite close
to Tangmarg. The river can be reached by walking 3-km down the path from
the gap near Tangmarg and then heading south through the forest, down a
slope towards the stream.
Near here there is a bridge which leas to the small waters meet picnic
spot on the right bank. Looking south from Tangmarg the river can be
traced up to its source close to the rugged peak known as Ferozpore or
Shinmahinyu. On the right bank the stream branches, the left path leading
to Tosa Maidan, while the right bends away towards the Gogaldara road at a
second bridge, about 32-km upstream, and then leads away to the Ferozpore
pass, Poonch and Kantar Nag.
One can continue on from here to Tosa Maidan, a three day, 50-km walk to
one of Kashmir's most beautiful Marg's, crossing the Basmai Gali pass at
about 4,000 metres. The track here is very close to the ceasefire line
with Pakistan and on the right one will pass the Jamainwali Gali, the pass
at 4,000 metres is one of the easiest and safest routes into the Punjab.
Shrine Of Baba Reshi / Ziarat Of Baba Reshi :
This Muslim shrine is on the slopes below Gulmarg and can be reached from
either Gulmarg or Tangmarg. The Ziarat, or tomb, is of a well-known Muslim
saint who died here in 1480. Before renouncing worldly ways he was a
courtier of the Kashmir King Zain-ul-Abidin. Every year thousands of
devotees visit this shrine regardless of the faith they believe in.
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